![]() So the way it is now is about 6 degrees BTDC right?įirst you have to set the dwell, 30 degrees asumming it's a single point distributor. When I'm on the drivers side looking down and in the engien bay the line on the dampener is passed the 0 on the advance side like 3-4 hash marks which I believe are 2 degrees each. So I just need a baseline idle timing adjustment for now.Īs of now when i look at the timing with the light at idle it is like 6-8 degrees on the advance side of the timing tab.īut you're saying go 12 degrees on the advance side? I'm just wanting to get a base line because as of now when I shut my engine off it has some engine run on going on it takes a couple secs to cut off. Ok well I have owned the car for 7 years and the previous owner had it since 83 the distributor I can tell you nobody has messed with he just put it in I'm sure. The original number of 4 degrees is very low you many want to start with 12 degrees and listen for pinging but that is not an ideal way to do this. Did you just get this car? Do you know the history pertaining to the distributor? Typically you would set the timing not at idle but at a higher RPM for the total advance number which should be 36 degrees but you dont have the right timing light to do this and/or you dont have the 36 degree mark on your damper. ![]() So you could set the timing at idle but not knowing what has been done to this distributor makes it difficult to say what you should set it for. Accel distributors quite often have modifed advance curves, lighter springs so total timing comes in sooner. The digital lights may be as accurate, but they are a lot more money than a degree tape.įirst you have to set the dwell, 30 degrees asumming it's a single point distributor. Your 'old' light with the proper degree tape stuck onto your damper will be more accurate than a dial-back light. For 'driver' vehicles not needing to be set-up for performance, setting timing per the "GM method" shown on the emissions sticker is adequate. Since it doesn't have a 'dial-back' feature, you will have to install a degree-tape on your damper.if you want to 'read' the timing at somewhere other than the indicator plate. The newer Xenon bulbs are much brighter and easier to see they aren't any more accurate, though. If your light is one of the old neon bulb type units, you may have to be in a darkened garage to be able to see the flashes. Red to 12 vdc (+), black to ground (I use alternator ground bolt) and the blue for spark signal. ![]() The blue wire should be connected to that coil-conductor. Then the coil/spring gizmo is what your #1 plug wire connects to. The 'pigtail' you mentioned is for connecting to your #1 spark plug. ![]() ![]() or if there is any kind of window where its good enough.The "old" timing light is fine.as long as it works. I guess it depends on just how much it has to be dead on a given number. I have 2 of the old ones, and they are both 1* wrong from 0 to 40 degrees, so its just the stickers location. Some high dollar dial back type lights have been far and away worse than the old cheap Craftsman dial back. some its just the stickers location, some i think its either inductive delay or the scale on the sticker is wrong and each degree gets progressively farther from right. Ive seen dial back lights as much as 4-5 degrees different from my msd light. If you arent spraying the shit out of something, or running a pro level deal, id hope they all are giving a repeatable answer and once you find the happy place for you, it should be fine The dial back type lights are all over the place, but im sure that each light is consistent to itself, so if you use the same light every time, you should get the same answer. If you need accuracy and consistency from one light to another, and your stuff is on the edge where a degree too much may hurt it, ive tested probably 20-25 MSD self powered lights against each other and they are dead on each other. ![]()
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